El Born & Parc de la Ciutadella

The first lines of the search results for the El Born district of Barcelona, sampled this morning:

El Born is sandwiched between Via Laietana and Barceloneta and is served by the metro stops Barceloneta and Jaume 1 which are on the same line. Las Ramblas and…

El Born brings to Greenpoint and NYC a taste of tapas y platillos from Spain and has a focus in Barcelona, where the owners are from.

A local’s guide to El Born district of Barcelona. The 26 best hotels, museums, bars, restaurants, shops and guided tours of El Borne for 2023.

Located in between the Gothic Quarter and the Ciutadella Park, El Born is one of Barcelona’s trendiest and most popular neighborhoods.

Once home to Barcelona’s affluent merchants, noblemen, and artisans, El Born is now one of the hippest, liveliest, and most creative…

That last line is from a site called “travel away” (no caps), which looks like an Afar knockoff, and the headline is “A Curated Guide to El Born, Barcelona.” Of course it’s curated. You must visit that perfect tapas place that serves unique craft sangria, or you’ll come down with a bad case of FOMO. (We had tasty tapas and swell sangria during our Catalonia holiday, but not in El Born.)

Anyway, you can’t just wander around to see what you can see, can you?

Of course you can. I wasn’t hip enough to know that El Born is trendy, but we were intrigued by our surroundings as we ambled along the mostly pedestrian thoroughfare Passeig del Born, where we acquired a drink and snacks to eat on a bench.El Born

The soda in question. All the way from Hamburg. We’d never heard of it, so we gave it a go. Now I can’t remember what it tasted like, so it must have been neither that good or particularly bad.

At one end of the passeig is a large plaza featuring an imposing cast-iron structure.El Born Centre El Born Centre

That’s El Born Centre de Cultura i Memoria. The main part of the inside was free to walk into; just follow the rules.El Born Centre

The El Born Centre was once a large public market (Mercat del Born), and the first cast-iron structure of its kind in Barcelona, dating from 1876.El Born Centre El Born Centre El Born Centre

I was inspired to take a few black-and-whites.El Born El Born

I should have take more of those in Barcelona, which has a lot of good contour for monochrome. Ah, well. The iron framework over our heads wasn’t the only thing to see at El Born Centre. Beneath the ground-floor walkways is an archaeological site with a connection to Barcelona’s bloody past.El Born El Born

A neighborhood once existed here, as it becomes clear staring down on the ragged wall stubs and stones. In 1714, after the Principality of Catalonia capitulated to Bourbon forces toward the end of the War of Spanish Succession, the victors leveled the neighborhood to build the Ciutadella (citadel) and its security esplanade, presumably to help keep the Catalans in line. Well over a century later, after the hubbub in ’68 (1868, that is) the city assumed control of the site and eventually built the market on a relatively small part of it.

Much later, the ruins were uncovered, and archaeological investigations proceed. Sources tell me the ruins of 60 houses in 11 separate blocks can be found in El Born’s archaeological site.

We exited from the opposite end of El Born Centre that we entered, and from there a short street leads to the sizable Parc de la Ciutadella (Citadel Park), which is the use 19th-century Barcelona had for most the former military facility. Good choice. It’s a grand place for a stroll. Or just to hang out.Parc de la Ciutadella Parc de la Ciutadella

A water feature. Reminded me a little of Chapultepec Park in Mexico City.Parc de la Ciutadella Parc de la Ciutadella

Plus an assortment of monumental structures. Such as the Catalonian parliament building.Parc de la Ciutadella

A thing called Castell dels tres Dragones, which seemed to be closed for repairs. Later (as in, today) I learned that Lluís Domènech i Montaner designed it. We’ll come back to him. He did something much more amazing that we saw later.Parc de la Ciutadella

A Catalan gazebo. Note the difference in detail from Castilian gazebos. Catalans are reportedly fiercely proud of their gazebo heritage.Parc de la Ciutadella

We were too tired to climb these stairs, but we did admire the work from some distance.Parc de la Ciutadella

That’s the Ciudadela Park Cascade, which as far as I can tell doesn’t honor anything specific, but was built in the late 19th century to celebrate Barcelona’s revival. And in time for the Universal Exhibition of Barcelona in 1888, which is yet another place to visit once that time machine is up and running (and 1929, too).

The park, like Jackson Park in Chicago and Hemisfair is San Antonio, owes much of its modern shape to a long-ago world’s fair.

Barri Gòtic Ramble: Carrers (Streets)

The Fourteenth Edition of Encyclopædia Britannica (1929) includes the following information (p. 103) in its Barcelona entry, about what is now known as the Barri Gòtic, the Gothic Quarter, which EB refers to simply as Ciudad.

“The Ciudad is the old Barcelona, built around the Roman Barcino… In the interior of the Ciudad are the architectural treasures left to Barcelona – the Plaza del Rey; the Gothic cathedral…; the church of Santa Maria del Mar and many public buildings…

“The narrow, irregular streets of the old quarter were broken through in the 19th century by the Calle de Fernando VII and its continuations, and more recently by the Via Layetana and other avenues; it seems probable that the mediæval ground-plan, so long conserved, will soon be unrecognizable.”

I’m glad to report that urban renewal didn’t completely erase the old quarter over the last century.Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona

Could be that the Depression and then the civil war put a halt to further big changes in the urban landscape, and by the 1950s, the quarter was run down and less desirable, and the city was expanding outward anyway. Then the neighborhood got spiffed up, though retaining its irregularities, in time for the 1992 Olympics.

Via Layetana is still called that, but Calle de Fernando VII is known as Carrer de Ferran in our time, since no doubt naming things for Spanish kings is a no-go in modern Catalonia.

These days, affluent Catalans roam the narrow streets of Ciudad, supporting an array of small shops, boutiques, restaurants, bars, and other businesses. The many tourists support those businesses, too, but also the likes of the Museu Picasso (as we did), Museu Moco, Museu Frederic Marès, Museu d’Historia de Barcelona, and the Museu de la Xocolata.

Most of the time, we walked around just to see what we could see. This kind of pre-car streetscape is pretty thin on the ground in North America (with a few exceptions), so it was a good ramble in the mediæval ground-plan.

Fun things in the shop windows.Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona

A fair amount of graffiti, or rather street paintings.Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona

I don’t think I’d ever seen a beggar in the pose that you see in illustrations. He didn’t move a bit. Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona Gothic Quarter Barcelona

I gave him a euro for his trouble.

Barri Gòtic Ramble: Plaçes (Plazas)

One of the few places I saw the flag of the Kingdom of Spain in Spain last month: the Palau de la Generalitat, seat of the Catalan government.Barri Gòtic Barri Gòtic

I suppose one of the details of the deal establishing Catalonian autonomy has the flag of Spain at this particular center spot, an acknowledgment, however small, that Catalonia is still part of Spain. We spotted the flags not long after leaving Barcelona Cathedral. Our unspoken goal: wander around the Barri Gòtic, to and through its plazas.

The Palau de la Generalitat, which had a long construction period from the 15th to the 17th centuries, fronts Plaça Sant Jaume; across the way directly is Barcelona City Hall.Barri Gòtic Barri Gòtic

One of the residential buildings facing the plaça displays its conviction that Catalonia should be independent, in the form of an Catalonian independence flag, the Estelada. We saw a scattering of the flags around the city.Barri Gòtic

The lively Plaça de Santa Maria, the open space in front of Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. As we wandered by, a troupe of dancers danced, so we stayed a while.Barri Gòtic

Plaça del Rei.Barri Gòtic

An important (main?) branch of the Barcelona City History Museum (MUHBA) has an entrance on the plaza. I’ve read that Roman ruins are in its lower level, but no go. The lower level was closed for unspecified reasons. Instead we spent time on the first (ground) floor, where you can see La Capilla de Santa Maria del Palacio Real Mayor, a royal chapel ordered built by James II of Aragon (Jaume).Barri Gòtic Barri Gòtic

Plus an assortment of smaller artifacts from Old Barcelona.Barri Gòtic

I saw this Barri Gòtic plaza on the map, and I knew I had to see it.Barcelona

An unpretentious square, with little to indicate who it is named for.Barcelona

I was beginning to think there was nothing to honor the man, but I was wrong.Barcelona

No statue or the like, which I suspect the honoree would have found faintly ridiculous. Well done, Barcelona.

Barcelona Cathedral

We were up and out early on our last day in Dublin, which was capped by downing Guinnesses, and we flew out that evening for a somewhat late arrival around midnight at El Prat Airport, Barcelona. Our energy reserves were low, riding one of the yellow-and-black cabs – the only legal colors – along the highway, looking out to indistinct nighttime streetscapes.

Some blocks from our hotel, we left the highway and crossed into the district known as Eixample, literally Expansion. That’s what it was, for late 19th-century Barcelona. The neighborhood features a regular street grid with buildings on all four sides of every block, a mix of residential and retail, with some offices as well.

We perked right up. At taxi speed, and at the midnight hour, details are fuzzy. The big signs and the bright lights and scattering of pedestrians on the sidewalks stood out. We passed a small grocery, brightly lit. A cafe. A small restaurant. A number of closed businesses, either for the night or for good. Another small grocery, just as bright. A closed bakery. A closed boutique with small lights illuminating mannikins. A bar with a few patrons out on tables on the sidewalk. A restaurant with a takeout business. Another grocery store.

What do you know, Catalonians were working on that whole walkability thing all the way back in the 19th century, especially one Ildefons Cerdà, the pioneering urban planner who designed neighborhood.

The next morning, May 18, we were fairly eager to take to the streets of Eixample, and wider Barcelona, and walk, and figure out the subways. By mid-morning found ourselves in the Barri Gòtic, the city’s oldest neighborhood. Put another way, the original location of the city, with many streets owing their origins to Roman thoroughfares, and many buildings owing their origins to a 14th- and 15th-century flowering of prosperity in the up-and-down history of Barcelona.

You can’t wander through the Barri Gòtic without encountering Barcelona Cathedral from one direction or another. We approached from the back.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

Formally, the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia. A Christian site since the 4th century at least, and site of a Roman temple before that. Completed in 1420 after more than a century under construction.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

Niches.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

Details.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral
Barcelona Cathedral

In the crypt beneath the high altar is alabaster sarcophagus of St. Eulalia, patroness of the cathedral and co-patroness of Barcelona. Martyred in the early 4th century, according to tradition.Barcelona Cathedral

Maintenance never ends.Barcelona Cathedral

The cathedral naturally counts as Gothic, but Gothic Revival as well. The Gothic-style exterior was a 19th- and early 20th-century addition, replacing a spare exterior that was the style for Catalan churches when the cathedral was originally built.

Part of the admission (€9) included a ride in a small elevator to a landing and a small metal staircase leading to a short series of walkways on the roof of the cathedral.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

Thus included in the admission are expansive views of Barcelona.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

Ordinary visitors don’t exit by at the place they came in, but rather through a door that leads to a cloister ringed with chapels that are behind iron bars, as they are in the cathedral itself.Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

The chapel next to the gift shop. They were on their way to visit St. Rita, patroness of abused and battered women.Barcelona Cathedral

I don’t remember which chapel this plaque fronted. It was the only memorial I saw in Barcelona to civil war dead, though I didn’t go out of my way looking for them. In this case clerics.Barcelona Cathedral

Not the only momento mori around. Burials in the floor. Barcelona Cathedral Barcelona Cathedral

A reminder of mortality before you step out of the cathedral grounds into the city streets. In case you needed one.

An Hiberno-Iberian Trans-Atlantic Jaunt

If, on the day that I graduated from college in 1983, a djinn with certain knowledge of the future had appeared to me and said, Forty years to the day from today — May 13, 2023 — you will board a jet airliner and fly to Ireland, my response might well have been, Really? Cool. Where else do I go over the next 40 years?

But he would be gone in a flash, as that is how djinn seem to disappear, before he imparted any other information about the one score and ten other countries between those two days. Just as well that djinn are not known to appear to Americans of our time. Not me, anyway. I just had to let the four decades unfold.

This not-very-important coincidence of May 13ths exactly 40 years apart occurred to me a few days before Yuriko and I took an Aer Lingus flight up and over eastern Canada, just south of Greenland’s southern tip, and on to Dublin the next morning, May 14.

Ireland was our place to recover from jet lag, but that didn’t keep us from treading (and tram riding) the streets of the Irish capital until May 17, and looking at as much as possible.

The evening of the 17th we flew to Barcelona for the second and longer leg of the trip. Except for an excursion to Montserrat for a day, we stayed in that city of 21st-century renown, a place for sensation overload of all kinds and highly recommended by friends with passports and travel inclinations. We returned home yesterday via a flight back to Dublin for a layover, and then another to Chicago.

Wake up in Catalonia, go to bed in Illinois. Too ordinary to be regarded as the marvel it is.

New cities for us; new countries. We liked Dublin. We really liked Barcelona. I expected it would break that way.

This month’s jaunt was our first visit to Europe since before smartphones, the wide use of the Internet or email or texting or QR codes, Google maps, or the euro. I’m not sure whether all that has made overseas travels any easier.

Regardless, we kept up an active pace of quick-step tourism, something like our passage through Arizona and Utah last year, except that walking and driving through wide open spaces seeking natural splendor became walking and public transit through the urban corridors of central Dublin and Barcelona, seeking human-made marvels.

We found some. Centuries-old churches, ornate palaces, imaginative modern buildings, sites of historic violence, plazas thick with people at play or merely rest, depositories of famed art and books, vistas of the ocean and among mountains, and Euro-designed urban greenspaces a bit different from what we’re used to in North America.

We passed over brick, cobblestone and asphalt, down sidewalks narrow and wide, up and down stairs, in the footsteps of centuries of people, mostly unknown and unknowable except in the broadest strokes, who walked these exact spots in times hard or prosperous. The early 21st century, as it happens, is a prosperous era in both cities. Shops are many and various and full and busy.

Concentrated prosperity. For an American used to dispersed prosperity, this is a novelty.

Temps in Dublin tended to be lower than in Barcelona, though only a few degrees. By mid-day most days, the sun shined and it was 20 degrees C. or a few more, as they reckon things. The spring air had the happy effect of encouraging bare midriffs among young Irish and Catalan women both. We were rained on only twice, briefly, and only on one day in Spain did we feel anything like high heat.

The more a meal featured some regional product, say milk and cheese in Ireland or seafood in Spain, the better it tended to be. The restaurants we visited were usually linear rooms with expansive menus, or simple takeout joints, or we sought food at convenience stores or actual grocery stores. I confirmed that, if I were a drinking man, Guinness wouldn’t be for me, but sangria would be.

We passed through endless seas of faces along the sidewalks and jammed in the subway cars and trams, maybe not quite as various as in New York or Chicago, but of great variety all the same. We encountered signs in English that were readable but not always quite comprehensible. Others in Catalan were either easy, or matters of guesswork. We noticed the way ordinary bits of a city’s infrastructure look just a little different in another country, or sometimes a lot different. We saw graffiti on the walls and graffiti on skin.

What is graffiti in Spanish? I had to look that up. El graffiti, turns out. Despite the presence of surveillance cameras in countless street-facing nooks, graffiti artists are not deterred in Barcelona, or Dublin either, from casting their paint on walls, doors, railyard surfaces and occasionally (the wankers) useful signs. Still, you have to be amused sometimes.

Do they know Andy Capp in Barcelona? Someone does.

La Dalia Brand Smoked Paprika

Almost warm today, nearly 60° F. Then winds came through, followed by rain after dark, then cold air. Tomorrow the high will be around 30° F. There’s no denying winter.

Fact for the day: the Dehesa de Extremadura Protected Designation of Origin in Spain produced 3,860 tons of peppers in 2020. I’m assuming that’s metric tons. Also, a dehesa is, according to Wiki at least, a “multifunctional, agrosylvopastoral system” specific to Spain and Portugal, though it’s called a montado in the latter country.

I had to look all that up, including a source or two beyond Wiki. Why did I look it up? Curiosity sparked by a can of Spanish paprika that recently appeared in our kitchen.

Isn’t that a fine design? A bit of everyday aesthetics, holding 70 grams of that pimentón production, though possibly from a crop more recent than 2020, since the packing date on the can is September 5 of this year — or May 9, since I’m not sure whether it’s month/day/year or day/month/year in Spain. Sometime this year, anyway.

La Dalia brand (the flower is Dahlia in English, notoriously as in Black) and from the La Vera district in Extremadura, as verified by whatever EU bureaucracy is in charge of such things. It doesn’t add materially to my life to know all that, but I’m glad I do all the same.

Thursday Scraps

Declining summer is a touch melancholy, but it has its charms. Such as soft cricketsong by night.

Late July and early August were drier than the wet weeks of late spring and early summer, but we did get some rain this week, mostly the non-thundering, gentle sort. Earlier this week, I stood outside under the eave over my back door, and heard water flowing vigorously.

Not something you necessarily want to hear near your roof. Soon I figured it out, to my relief. The dry spell had completely dried the gutters out, so that the new water flowed much more freely. That was the sound: rainwater as it coursed through the gutters on its way to the downspout.

Something I’ve noticed in recent years: when you buy an inexpensive men’s belt, you don’t get a decent belt that lasts a few years, though a little worn at the end. You get cheap crap.

That’s the latest belt of mine to fall apart. There’s an industry for you to disrupt, Mr. Millennial looking for the main chance. Make decent belts. Probably someone’s doing that. Decent, maybe, but also priced five times an ordinary belt.

Recently I finished Everybody Behaves Badly,  subtitled “The True Story Behind Hemingway’s Masterpiece The Sun Also Rises,” by Leslie M.M. Blume (2016). Well written and full of interesting anecdotes. I knew Sun was a roman à clef but I didn’t know much detail or just how lightly Hemingway fictionalized some of the events, much to the embarrassment of the people who went to Spain with him in the summer of ’25.

Some tidbits: in an early draft of the novel, one of Brett’s brief affairs was said to be with an American named Tom who kept polo ponies. Possibly an allusion to the character Tom Buchanan in The Great Gatsby. Didn’t make the final cut.

Robert Cohn was based on Harold Loeb, an unflattering portrait that shadowed Loeb the rest of his life. Loeb and Hemingway didn’t quite come to blows in Pamplona, however, unlike their characters. They were angry enough at each other to fight, but apparently thought better of it.

Not long after the book came out, Hemingway left his first wife for the woman who would become his second. As part of the divorce, he agreed to give wife #1 Hadley Richardson the royalties from Sun, which would have been considerable. Then again, in marrying wife #2 Pauline Pfeiffer, he was marrying into money.

Now I want to read something different than that milieu. So I picked up a book of Eudora Welty short stories.

Goya at the Meadows Museum

Last Saturday, Jay and I visited the Meadows Museum on the SMU campus. We got in for free because it was homecoming weekend. Even though Jay had no interest in attending any official reunion events – he’s SMU Class of ’74 – he got one of the benefits of being an alum on this occasion: two free admissions to his particular museum.

Meadows specializes in Spanish art. I borrow from Wiki because I’m lazy: “[The museum] houses one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of Spanish art outside of Spain, with works dating from the 10th to the 20th century. It includes masterpieces by El Greco, Velazquez, Ribera, Murillo, Goya, Miro, Sorolla, and Picasso. Highlights of the Meadows Collection include Renaissance altarpieces, monumental Baroque canvases, rococo oil sketches, polychrome wood sculptures, Impressionist landscapes, modernist abstractions, a comprehensive collection of the graphic works of Goya, and a select group of sculptures by major twentieth-century masters…”

The graphic works of Goya. Such as the famed “The Sleep of Reason Brings Monsters.”

Meadows Museum, Nov 2014

Along with some truly weird images as well.

Meadows Museum, Nov 2014Meadows Museum, Nov 2014Meadows Museum, Nov 2014

I was glad to see them. Austin shouldn’t have all the weird. Dallas needs a little too.