Palm Jumeirah

When I went to the observation deck of Burj Khalifa in Dubai, I expected to see the Palm Jumeirah artificial islands off in the distance. I did, but barely. Its distinctive, palm-like shape was hazy and mostly indistinct off in the distance. So I decided a few days later to get a better look, though not quite like the images seen from space, such as one from the International Space Station.

For a view closer to the surface of the Earth, but not too close, you go to the observation deck of the Palm Tower, which rises nearly 790 feet above the Nakheel Mall at a mid-point on the stem of the Palm Jumeriah. “The View at the Palm,” the place is called in English. I took in the view on March 2.Palm Jumeirah

Access to the elevators, beyond the ticket desk, includes a room with photos and brief text about the building of the Palm Jumeirah. The briefest version: a lot of rocks and sand were dumped into the Persian Gulf – which the UAE calls the Arabian Gulf – and artfully engineered to create dry land, at least for our generation. I’m sticking with the Persian Gulf; there is already an Arabian Sea, which is bigger anyway, but maybe they’re both envious of India, which gets an entire ocean.

At one point on the tower’s lower floor, you pass through a colorful tunnel featuring a painting of colorful undersea life. Maybe it evokes the bottom of the Persian Gulf near Dubai? In a sort of colorful cartoon way?Palm Jumeirah Palm Jumeirah

The elevator whisks you up to a busy observation deck.Palm Jumeirah Palm Jumeirah

Busy for a reason, namely the fine 360-degree view. Once I could work my way through the other vista-takers, I started with the view out to the end of the Palm.

There at the end is Atlantis DubaiActually, the structure with the Arabic dome outline is only part of the Atlantis Dubai resort: Atlantis The Palm.

A little further down the shore is Atlantis: The Royal, “the most ultra-luxury experiential resort in the world,” asserts the web site copy. No doubt it is ultra, but just looking at the design, I couldn’t help thinking of some of the rectangular cuboid building blocks I played with as a small child, stacking them something like that. Palm Jumeirah

I checked, and in theory one can get a rack-rate room at Atlantis: The Palm on some days for around $330 a night, but of course such a number is merely a starting point of a price escalation. As for The Royal, the rate is some hundreds more, thence to the stratosphere.

Views of the palm fronds. Palm Jumeirah

Impressive rows of real estate, especially considering that it was created ex nihilo only in this century. So it isn’t quite true that they aren’t making more real estate. But I guess it is true that no one is making cheap real estate, since I doubt that would be economically feasible, even for oil states.

Ever the curious sort, I checked some of the hotel rates at the properties closer to the Palm Tower, and they are in the same league, roughly, as upper midscale or upscale properties in the United States (my hotel near the airport counted as midscale, I think).Palm Jumeirah Palm Jumeirah Palm Jumeirah

Of course, only some of these views include hotels. There are plenty of apartments and condos too, and I’m sure their price points are mostly elevated as well.

The 360-degree panorama includes a look back at mainland Dubai.Palm Jumeirah

You’d think this would be downtown, but no.

Dubai has a number of building clusters sizable enough to be called downtown elsewhere. But in Dubai, they are just more Dubai. Off in the distance is an equally large cluster that includes (in the midground) the sail-like Burj Al-Arab and (somewhere in the background) the Burj Khalifa.

The creation of Palm Jumeirah also meant the creation of beaches, and from my tourist perch at The View, I could see a large group of moving dots – they must have been children, considering their movements – down below.Palm Jumeirah Palm Jumeirah

I expect it was some kind of resort babysitting (ahem, curated activity), allowing the dots to scamper around while their parents and older relatives drank under large umbrellas. I couldn’t help thinking of Harry Lime’s evil ruminations in The Third Man.

Good thing I’m not, and most people are not, the murdering sort, for fun or profit.

Jama Masjid, Delhi

Part of the inspiration to visit India was the book City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi (1993) by the admirable Scottish writer William Dalrymple, which I’ve known about for years but only got around to reading late last year. Timing is important in one’s travels, even before going anywhere, and I happened to be reading that book as we discussed going to Japan in the coming winter. In a typical train of thought for me, I figured if we’re already in Japan, how much more effort would it take to go on to India? Some, as it turned out, mostly after we arrived, but worth the effort.

One memorable passage in City of Djinns involved Dalrymple’s visit to Jama Masjid in Delhi, during the end of Ramadan one year. A mass swirl of humanity came to the mosque on that occasion. When we were there in February on an ordinary non-Friday, humanity was mostly represented by tourists, contributing our little bit to the upkeep.Jama Masjid Jama Masjid Jama Masjid

As well we should visit. Extraordinary in its grandness, the place also reminds a North American just how far he is from home.

At the entrance of the prayer hall.Jama Masjid Jama Masjid

That hints at a history of video crews making, or trying to make, their works on the sly. Equipment doesn’t need to as large as it used to be. Jama Masjid
Jama Masjid Jama Masjid

Up.Jama Masjid Jama Masjid Jama Masjid

Once again, what would modern India be without reminders of Mughal power and prestige? The mosque is the work of Shah Jahan I (d. 1666), fifth Mughal emperor, or rather the 5,000 workers hired for the job and supervised by his Grand Vizier. “Indians, Arabs, Persians, Turks, and Europeans” were among the workers, according to Wiki.

The mosque commands a hill in Old Delhi, rising on the edge of the marketplace maze that is Chandni Chowk. Its minarets rise 135 feet.Jama Masjid Jama Masjid

I didn’t have the urge to make a video at the Jama Masjid of Delhi, but I can see its omnidirectional visual appeal. The Mughal talent for architectural grandness shows up in pretty much every direction.

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, Kamakura

In my experience, most visits to Japanese cities start by getting off a train. Most, but not all. In Kamakura, it did.Kamakura

Torii (鳥居) gates also mark a beginning. Gate gates, in other words, though a torii is a special kind of gate, either marking an entrance to a Shinto shrine or the road to a shrine. (Most of the time.) Not far from the Kamakura main train station is one such gate.Komachi-dori

Past it is Komachi-dori, which leads almost directly to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. It’s a pedestrian shopping street, which are fairly common in Japan. Less common is that it has a name, since many streets in that country do not. Addresses are determined by increasingly small subdivisions of the land, a system that takes some getting used to, but which seems to work for the Japanese.

Komachi-dori is packed with shops, cafes and restaurants.Komachi-dori Komachi-dori

Standard souvenirs are widely available. Standard for Japan, that is.Komachi-dori Komachi-dori

Other places are more unusual, even for Japan. At one shop, you can have a belt custom made.Komachi-dori

Who knows, artisanal belts might be the rage now. ¥6000 as of today is a bit less than $42, and in February would have been a little less than $40, and maybe worth it, considering the low quality of mass-produced belts that sell for half that much or so. But we didn’t stop in.

We also took a pass on Kamakura Pig Park.Komachi-dori Komachi-dori

A place where you can have coffee or tea, and play with “micro pigs,” it seems. I understand there is a trend toward cute animal cafes, often cats. We saw one of those on the street as well.

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine is a large Shinto complex, founded in the 11th century of the Common Era and getting a boost during the Kamakura shogunate not long after. The grounds include some handsome structures, smaller and larger.Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine

The structures aren’t 1,000 years old, owing to the usual cycle of destruction and reconstruction common to wooden buildings. The Meiji government ordered some of the destruction in the 19th century, when it decided that Buddhism and Shinto had to be separate things. Previously rampant syncretism between the two in Japan had been the order of the day, but apparently that would never do, and so a fair number of sacred sites were thus destroyed, including structures at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu.

The stairs to the main sanctuary. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine

The “semi-mythical” Emperor Ojin, according to a sign in Japanese and English, is enshrined there as a kami. As far as I can tell, there isn’t agreement on whether such a human ruler of that name actually existed back in the first millennium CE, but I expect a niggling little detail like that wouldn’t bother a kami.

Prayers.Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine

Speaking of torii, these mark the path to a sub-shrine, Maruyama Inari. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine

Small, but that is presumably all the god of rice, agriculture and prosperity Inari needs, to do whatever it is kami do.

Orloj (The Prague Astronomical Clock)

They say petty con men hang out at Old Town Square in Prague, looking for marks for the likes of three-card monte or a shell game or bogus currency exchange schemes, which raises the question: who hasn’t heard of those cons? But I have to report that no one approached us at Old Town Square for trickery or anything else. Sometimes it’s good to old men who are essentially invisible.

We had the idea at Old Town Square that we’d see the Church of the Mother of God before Týn, which has a cool church name. Distinctive, anyway, incorporating a very local place name. Týn Courtyard, next to the church, is a small area that hosted visiting merchants at one time, and whose largess helped build the edifice. There has been a church on the site for at least 900 years, with the usual story of modifications, rebuilding, replacement, fires, style changes and of course some sectarian strife now and then. Old Town Square Prague

The church is a little off the square, but not far. In my image, it is behind the monumental memorial to Jan Hus and other Hussites, which dates only from 1915. The church wasn’t open when we dropped by. Too bad, I understand Tycho Brahe is buried near the altar; that would have been worth seeing all by itself.

Across the square is Old Town Hall, dating from the 13th century.Old Town Square Prague

On the opposite side from my image, Old Town Hall is the site of the Orloj – the astronomical clock that doesn’t concern itself with whether most people can read it. The master clockmaker and the few learned men who could read it when it was new probably didn’t concern themselves with that fact either. Why would they?

The crowds don’t go to read it anyway, but to watch the mechanical figures move on the hour. We arrived just as that was happening early on the afternoon of March 12.Old Town Square Prague Old Town Square Prague

“Starting in the 13th century, astronomical clocks began springing up around Europe, using intricate functions to show information such as lunar phases, the position of the sun and moon, and the zodiac at any given moment,” My Modern Met explains.

Work on the Prague clock started a little later than that, in 1410. Again as usual with something that old, modifications and additions and changes and restorations have been made over the years, including as recently as 2018Old Prague Astronomical Clock

“The figurines, which were added in the 1600s, represent four vices [sic, death is a vice?]. Vanity is shown as a man admiring himself in a mirror, a miser holding a bag of gold represents greed, while another strumming an instrument is to show lust or earthly greed. The fourth sculpture, a skeleton, represents death and rings the bell each hour as the other figurines shake their heads.”Old Prague Astronomical Clock

After the 1 p.m. movement of the figurines, the crowd thinned out. Old Prague Astronomical Clock

If I understand correctly (no promises), the time-keeping aspects of the clock includes three different systems: a conventional 24-hour clock, a 24-clock that whose zero hour is at sunset –  both new and competing systems when the clock was built – and an older system of unequal hours, whose length depended on the time of the year, something like the Romans used (12 hours by day, four watches at night), though it is thought to date back to Babylon.

“But the clock is about much more than telling time,” My Modern Met continues. “Two separate wands representing the sun and the moon move around the zodiac ring. The sun moves counterclockwise against the ring, and gives an indication of where the sun and moon are in their orbit around the Earth.

“The moon wand is half white and half black in order to show the current cycle of the moon. Interestingly, the rotation of the ball showing the lunar phases is entirely owed to gravity, something unique in this genre of timekeeping.

“A small golden star shows the position of the vernal equinox and sidereal time based on the Roman numerals.”

Most of that wasn’t anything I could understand just looking up at the clock, and I’m not entirely sure I can piece it together in the comfort of my home office. Still, the intricacies and metalwork are marvels to behold — representing a remarkable store of pre-modern knowledge and mechanical aptitude — and behold them we did.

Berlin Alexanderplatz

In case you don’t know where you are, at a certain spot in central Berlin, a large sign will tell you.Alexanderplatz Alexanderplatz

Bet it’s a nice glow at night, too. The sign is just outside the Alexanderplatz Bahnhof, where intercity trains and the U-bahn and the S-bahn and trams and buses converge. The station was an important one for us, since we often transferred there to the U-bahn line to the equally interesting Rosenthaler Platz, location of our accommodations (and which for some reason is two words). Going to or from our hotel generally involved passing through Alexanderplatz.

The platz has a long history as a meeting place, and along the way (1805, to be exact) picked up its current name, in honor of Tsar Alexander I, who visited Prussia that year. But if you had to pick a time to visit, probably 100 years ago would be it. One of the reasons they say Berlin in the ’20s was Berlin in the ’20s was the activity around Alexanderplatz.

In 1969, the East German authorities built the World Clock (Weltzeituhr) at Alexanderplatz, whose function is to tell the time of 148 large cities around the world, and display a spiffy model of the Solar System (and I count nine planets; glad no busybody has removed Pluto).

Built to remind passersby (at one time) that socialism was the future? Was worldwide? That the Solar System is red? Pining down motive among communist officialdom over 50 years ago is a fool’s errand, I’m afraid. Alexanderplatz

As seen at about 4:10 pm on March 13. We sat on a bench nearby, taking the rest we needed as older men. But I should have taken a closer look at the clock, since it seems that the drum tells us that the time in Berlin – along with Amsterdam, Brussels, Budapest, Madrid, Paris, Prague and a lot of other places – is just past 8 am. So the mechanism had stopped? Did I misunderstand it? Something else? Alexanderplatz

Such are the little retroactive mysteries of travel. In any case, life was going on at the platz, all around the clock: shoppers, commuters, buskers and more. At various points in history, Alexanderplatz has been the scene of mass political demonstrations (e.g. 1848, 1919, 1989), but even on ordinary days, people are out trying to make a point. Such as this fellow.Alexanderplatz

I haven’t spent a lot of time in Germany, but my impression is that waving, or even displaying, the national flag isn’t quite as common as here in the U.S. Turned out, however, that his flag was a bit modified to convey a message that one hopes isn’t nationalist.Alexanderplatz

The platz reminded me that I ought to read Berlin Alexanderplatz. I remember some years ago watching the first episode of the ’80s West German TV adaptation, but not liking it, except now I can’t remember why. Maybe Fassbinder isn’t for me, though I haven’t seen any of his other movies either. Still, I suppose if you want to know more about Berlin in the ’20s – and not the 2020s – the book would be a worthwhile read.

The Jantar Mantar of Jaipur

Apparently Sawai Jai Singh II (d. 1743), Raja of Amber and founder and Raja of Jaipur, had a keen interest in astronomy, because he commissioned the construction of six naked-eye observatories — jantar mantars – in his realm in the early 18th century. The one in Jaipur itself is a complex of structures hard to understand without explanation. Or even with explanation a lot of the time.

I didn’t take that picture, since that vantage was unavailable, or at least I didn’t know about it. Someone calling himself Knowledge Seeker thoughtfully released the image into the public domain, however. It gives a sense of the layout of instruments in a sort of plaza, though it doesn’t depict the large sundial, except right at the lower left corner. Just behind the Jantar Mantar is City Palace, more about which eventually, but which Jai Singh II also had built. One of those busy kings, sounds like.

The Jantar Mantar observatory in Jaipur constitutes the most significant and best preserved set of fixed monumental instruments built in India in the first half of the 18th century; some of them are the largest ever built in their categories,” UNESCO says, for indeed it is a World Heritage Site, which are thick on the ground in India. “Designed for the observation of astronomical positions with the naked eye, they embody several architectural and instrumental innovations.

This is the kind of place that reminds me once again how little I know. Such as about Indian astronomy, thousands of years in the making. A familiarity with that subject might help answer the question I have – why didn’t Jai Singh II incorporate places for telescopes? I feel certain he would have had some, imported or locally made.

The Jantar Mantar is also good for some gee-whiz moments, such as looking up at the world’s largest sundial.Jantar Mantar of Jaipur Jantar Mantar of Jaipur  Jantar Mantar of Jaipur

Our affable guide in Jaipar that day, Ali, points to the time on the enormous dial plate. The instrument is capable of measuring time to an accuracy of two seconds (with some caveats; see “How accurate is it?” on this page). Jantar Mantar of Jaipur

He asserted that the sundial is indeed the world’s largest, though I’ve seen other sources that weasel with such phrasing as “one of.” I’ll go with Ali on this one: the largest in the world, unless I find out about a bigger one, and I’m not going to look very hard.

Ali also told us that his father was a tour guide in Jaipur, as was his father before him, which is some span, since he might have been close to my age. He was knowledgeable enough that being in the family biz seemed likely. He also might have had information about the use of telescopes back then, but I forgot to ask.

Other instruments, whose descriptions I read on English signs next to the Hindi, but which are less easy to understand than a sundial, except to say they are useful for tracking objects in the sky. Jantar Mantar of Jaipur  Jantar Mantar of Jaipur  Jantar Mantar of Jaipur

More structures, either built upward or downward. Jantar Mantar of Jaipur  Jantar Mantar of Jaipur

Of course each instrument has a purpose and a name – such as Samrat Yantra, Jaya Prakasa, and Rama Yantra, which supposedly Jai Singh II designed himself. Detailed information is at jantarmantar.org. Even without a tight grip on all the details, there’s no doubt that the Jantar Mantar of Jaipur is impressive, besides having an impressive name that rolls right off your tongue.

Dotonburi & Hozenji Temple, Osaka

There he is, Glico Man.Dontonburi Dontonburi

A lot of people want to emulate Glico Man.Dontonburi Dontonburi

Or at least acknowledge him.Dontonburi

Gilco Man may be a mascot for the Japanese food conglomerate of that name – the Osaka food conglomerate, maker of Pocky sticks – but he’s pretty much a one-trick pony on the sign at least, exuberant at his racing victory. Still, everyone in Osaka knows him, since the sign in one form or another — LED these days, neon before — has been displayed for 90 years over Ebisu Bridge (Ebisubashi) where it crosses the Dotonbori Canal.

Dotonburi is the name of the canal, which is an early Edo period (17th century) enlargement of a river, but it is also the name of the district. A packed place even by Japanese standards, replete with restaurants, bars and other small business, many of whom advertise themselves in highly visual ways. When photographers, pro and casual, want to take flashy nighttime images of Osaka, with walls of neon and LED advertising and crowds filling the pedestrian avenues, Dotonburi is where they go.

We were there during the day, joining the crowds, both on the bridge and on Dotonburi’s side streets.Dotonburi Dotonburi

Nice view from the bridge.Dotonburi

Something I wouldn’t have expected in February, but we did see something similar in December.Dotonburi

When enthusiastic fans of the Hanshin Tigers baseball team really want to celebrate, they jump into the canal. Forty years ago during an especially exuberant moment, they found a life-sized advertising statue of Col. Sanders at a nearby KFC and dropped that into the canal, where it was unrecovered until 2009. The Tigers were pretty much a doormat team during the period when the Colonel was lost – mere coincidence?

A sort of Ferris wheel, looking out over the canal. It wasn’t there in the 1990s. We considered a ride, but it looked like it was moving awfully slow.Dotonburi Dotonburi

One of my favorite features of Dotonburi is the 3D restaurant advertising.Dotonburi Dotonburi Dotonburi

Hidden away in the nearby streets mostly too small for vehicles but well adorned with odd things —Dotonburi Dotonburi Dotonburi

— is Hozenji Temple.Hozenji Temple Hozenji Temple Hozenji Temple Hozenji Temple

Built in 1637, Hozenji Temple pays homage to Fudo Myoo, one of five guardians of Buddhism,” notes Travel Japan. “During the 1600s, Namba and the surrounding area of Dotonbori were blossoming as a center for entertainment, with dramatic performances of kabuki and bunraku taking place throughout the district. Even the temple catered to the performing arts, with traditional rakugo storytelling and stage plays performed on site.”

One depiction of the Buddha.Hozenji Temple

But the temple is better known for its statue of Fudo Myoo.Hozenji Temple

Covered with moss, he is.Hozenji Temple

Because the thing to do is toss water on the statue. Keeps him hydrated. I took a turn myself, because who I am to deny Fudo Myoo a nice cup of water?

Church of Saint Nicholas, Prague

Regards for Easter. Back to posting on April 21.

Old Town Square, Prague, on a gray day in March.Old Town Square Prague Old Town Square Prague

Facing the Old Town Square, though not in those images, is the Church of Saint Nicholas (Kostel svatého Mikuláše), a site with a history as varied as it is long. There was a church there since at least the 12th century and, knowing how these things go, probably some sacred space well before that.Church of St. Nicholas, Prague Church of St. Nicholas, Prague Church of St. Nicholas, Prague

When Hussites had their moment, they used the church. Afterward, Premonstratensians used it, and then Benedictines set up a monastery there. When their time had run its course, the temporarily secularized building was for a time a storehouse, and – a little hard to imagine, but this is what a sign in the church said – a music hall. Religion returned in 1920 in the form of revived Hussites newly independent of Rome, who use the church to this day.

How many Czech Hussites are there these days? World Atlas asserts fewer than 40,000, which is fewer than 0.4 percent of the population. But that hardly counts as a long-term win for this particular Counter-Reformation, if you can call it that. The largest categories of religion in the modern Czech Republic are “Undeclared” and “No Religion,” totaling nearly 80 percent.

The 21st-century visitor to St. Nicholas sees a bit of urban renewal from the 18th century, to use a term that the ecclesiastical authorities who wanted a new building back then surely didn’t use, even in the unlikely event they’d used English. I’ll bet the old Gothic church on the site was worn out and just so 12th century anyway. Out with Gothic, in with Baroque.Church of St. Nicholas, Prague Church of St. Nicholas, Prague

St Nicholas Prague St Nicholas Prague

Looks like St. George, doing what is expected of him: dealing with the dragon.

Berliner Dom

My friend Steve and I crossed into East Berlin at Checkpoint Charlie on the morning of July 9, 1983, and headed for Museum Island. A heady time for us: lads out seeing the world, including a slice behind the Iron Curtain, a political situation that predated our existence. I’m sure that had you asked me at that moment, I’d have predicted that the world was going to be stuck with it for the rest of our lifetimes at least. It didn’t even last the decade. 1989 was quite a surprise.

That evening I wrote: “We looked at a small, roundish church, then Humboldt U., then we found ourselves at the Cathedral. Nice, but a wreck inside.”

That “small, roundish church” must have been St. Hedwig’s Cathedral (St.-Hedwigs-Kathedrale), which is in fact the Catholic cathedral of the Archdiocese of Berlin and not particularly small. But maybe it seemed that way in comparison to a lot of other very large buildings we saw that day, including the Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral), which is part of the Evangelical Church in Germany and technically not a cathedral, but never mind.

I didn’t have a camera in ’83. Italics because who would believe it now? Steve had a point-and-shoot, and some months later, he sent me some physical prints from our visit, including one of the Berliner Dom.

The Fernsehturm TV tower is in the background. Either we didn’t have time for it in ’83 or it wasn’t open to tourists – it’s the kind of thing I would have done – and in ’25 we decided that 30+ euros was too much for an observation deck.

My return to the Berliner Dom was on March 7, 2025, this time with my brother Jay. Now, of course, point-and-shot cameras are worlds better than they used to be, and filmless, and you can slip them in your pocket when not in use.Berliner Dom Berliner Dom Berliner Dom

The DDR might have built an impressive TV tower, but the state never got around to restoring the interior of the Berliner Dom, though the dome itself was replaced. The wreck of the original dome still lingered on the cathedral floor back then. If I remember right, one peered from a balcony down on the rubble in ’83. Interior restoration came much later, completed in 2002.

Berliner Dom Berliner Dom Berliner Dom

A gushingly ornate design, but impressive, by 19th-century German architect Julius Carl Raschdorff.

Walking up to the dome was possible, but we decided too many steps were involved. I would have in ’83, as I did at St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s and other enormous churches, but I’m not that young man any more.Berliner Dom Berliner Dom

The crypt level was closed, unfortunately, so no visiting the many Hohenzollerns therein. But not Wilhelm II, who had the cathedral built. He’s still in exile in the Netherlands.

The Lotus Temple

For a religion with at most 6 million adherents (maybe) – fewer than 0.1 percent of the people on Earth — the Baha’i Faith has created some remarkable temples, all around the Earth. Until recently, we’d been acquainted in person with only one of them, the extraordinary Baha’i House of Worship in Wilmette, Illinois. Especially when we lived closer to that part of metro Chicago, it was a go-to place to take out-of-towners.

Now we’ve experienced another remarkable Baha’i edifice: The Lotus Temple (Kamal Mandir) in Delhi, set in an enormous green space in the southern reaches of that city. Green, but inaccessible to casual visitors, and probably for good reason, considering the volume of people that visit. We were among the crowd in late February.Lotus Temple, Delhi

More green space than one would think possible in Delhi, but the land was acquired by Baha’i adherents in 1953, using money left to them in the will of one of the faithful from Hyderabad. The city may have been large then, but not what it would become later. The temple was built from 1977 to 1986.Lotus Temple, Delhi Lotus Temple, Delhi

Designed by Fariborz Sahba, an Iranian architect and Baha’i who long ago left his homeland for North America, the structure includes 27 free-standing marble-clad “petals” arranged in clusters of three, forming nine sides, and surrounded by nine pools as the key landscape feature. Apparently nine sides is mandatory for Baha’i temples. This aerial image is quite striking, though invisible to ordinary tourists.

“There is a deep and universal reverence for the lotus in India,” Sahba said in a 2015 interview. “It is regarded as a sacred flower associated with worship throughout many centuries and therefore its significance is deeply rooted in the minds and hearts of the Indians.

“In the epic poem Mahabharata, the Creator Brahma is described as having sprung from the lotus. In Buddhist folklore the Buddha is represented as being born from a lotus, and is usually depicted standing or sitting on a lotus. It is also deeply rooted in the Zoroastrian and Islamic architecture; for example, the dome of the Taj Mahal is bud of a lotus.”

The Lotus Temple – formally a House of Worship, like the other Baha’i temples around the world – is a popular place. One source claims 3 million visitors a year, which would put it in the same league as the Taj Mahal (though sources offer rather varied numbers for that; it’s in the low millions anyway).Lotus Temple, Delhi

We waited 15 minutes or so to get in. No photography inside, which is a sweeping and unadorned, just as the Baha’i temple in Illinois and elsewhere. That too is a defining characteristic of the temples worldwide.Lotus Temple, Delhi Lotus Temple, Delhi

“The prayer hall is plain and has no altars or religious idols, pulpits, or fixed speaker platforms,” writes Mari Yariah, a Malaysian Baha’i who volunteered at the Lotus Temple for a couple of months. “There are no rituals or ceremonies. No talks or sermons are delivered…

“The prayer hall has a capacity for 1,300 visitors to be seated on the benches. There is capacity to increase the number to 2,500… Visitors were allowed to remain in the prayer hall for as long as they desired. Special prayer services are held four times throughout the day at 10 am, 12 noon, 3 pm, and 5 pm. [We weren’t there for any of those.] During these prayer sessions that last for about ten minutes, scriptures from various religions were read out or chanted in melodious voices.”