Savannah Bits

By the time we got to Factors Walk in downtown Savannah on March 7, it was already dark. Daytime pictures of the area, which used to be home to the sizable business of selling and shipping cotton, are available here.

The ground floor of the Factors Walk buildings facing the Savannah River are mostly oriented to tourists these days, including restaurants and small shops. I bought some postcards at a souvenir store, and when I told the clerk where I lived (he asked), he further asked whether Illinois has mandatory auto emissions tests. I said it does.

He said, as a life-long resident of Savannah, he only recently found out that some states do that. He looked to be in his 30s. It seemed to be a subject of some fascination for him.

Later I checked, and I was only partly correct. Only some counties in Illinois test auto emissions — Cook and Du Page among them, the only counties I’ve ever lived in here. Some Georgia counties do too, but not Chatham, where Savannah is located.

Some of the tourist attractions at Factors Walk are more mobile than the stores, such as the good tourist ship Georgia Queen, apparently docked for the evening.Georgia Queen

Another thing I heard from a resident: St. Patrick’s Day is a big to-do in Savannah, probably even bigger this year after two years of cancelation. We came to town nearly two weeks ahead of all that, and so were able to find a room. Closer to the event and we’d have been out of luck, even booking as I did in January.

Some houses were already ready for the festivities, such as along Jones St.Savannah

Other places had more topical colors flying.Savannah 2022

Savannah is easily as picturesque as Charleston, maybe more so, but it needs more stylish cast-iron covers.Savannah 2022

The first evening we were in town, I took a walk near the Isseta Inn. I chanced by the Gingerbread House. I knew it was called that because of the sign out front.Ginger Bread House Savannah

“Built in 1899 by Cord Asendorf, this magnificent house is considered among the finest examples of Steamboat Gothic architecture in America,” the house web site asserts. These days it hosts weddings and other events.

Even closer to the Isetta Inn — on the next block — evidence that the neighborhood continues to gentrify.Savannah 2022

Savannah 2022Though a little clogged with traffic, Victory Drive is a good drive, among the palms that line it. There is some commercial development, including this sign — which has its own Atlas Obscura page. We weren’t inspired to buy anything there.

The town of Tybee Island has very little free parking. I understand the reasons: lots of visitors, infrastructure needs to be maintained, etc. Still, that grated, especially since it applied even on a Sunday, which is when we drove through.

So besides The Crab Shack, which had a gravel parking lot shaded by tall trees, the only place we stopped was along U.S. 80 on the outskirts of town, where no meters or fee signage existed.

We took a look at a small cluster of shops on the road.Tybee Island 2022 Tybee Island 2022 Tybee Island 2022

More interestingly, visited Fish Art Gallerie. It has its own Roadside America item, though not including a lot of information. “The folk art environment/gallery/store of Ralph Douglas Jones, who turns junk into fish art. Much colorful nonsense is visible from the street,” RA says.

This is a video of the founder Jones. The guy at the counter when we visited didn’t look like him, which is too bad, since meeting Ralph might be the same kind of trip as meeting Randy in Pittsburgh.Tybee Island Fish Art 2022 Tybee Island Fish Art 2022 Tybee Island Fish Art 2022 Tybee Island Fish Art 2022

Ann bought some beads and other small items, I bought a cast-iron bottle opener in the shape of a turtle.

One more pic from Tybee Island.Tybee Island 2022

Just more of the trees that helped make visiting this part of the country a delight.

The Isetta Inn

At one of the corners of Whitaker St. and W. 37th St. in Savannah stands the Isetta Inn, where we stayed three nights.Isetta Inn, Savannah

I didn’t take careful notes when I read a framed article hung on a stairway landing at the Isetta, and I can’t find it posted on line, but I do remember it said that the property was built in 1907, suffered a period of neglect much later in the 20th century (of course) and might have been torn down, but it was restored to magnificence by a dedicated renovationist in the early 21st century. Now it’s a one-of-a-kind hotel.

Its fate could have been like the lot cater-cornered across the intersection. Wonder what used to be there.Isetta Inn, Savannah

I had time to mull that question, which I don’t really need to answer, sitting in one of the red rocking chairs on the Isetta’s delightful front porch. I spent some time there, both during the day and in the evening, reading or just gazing out into the surrounding neighborhood, the Starland District. Both 37th and Whitaker are fairly busy streets, and that stretch of 37th especially is a boulevard shaded by tall southern live oaks fully decked out with Spanish moss.Isetta Inn, Savannah

“Starland” doesn’t sound like an historic name, and it isn’t. Two Savannah College of Art and Design graduates reportedly dreamed up the moniker ca. 2000 to use for an arts district for the city.

“The idea of a vanguard arts district may seem counterintuitive in this slow-paced city of courtly manners and stately architecture, but after almost two decades, an emerging area called the Starland District may finally be hitting its stride,” the New York Times reported in 2015.

“… the Starland District is a collection of art studios, small offices, galleries, cafes and retail shops loosely assembled around Bull Street south of Savannah’s historic downtown and Forsyth Park.”

The lobby of the Isetta is an artful place — actually the whole property is — and so right at home in an arts district. In fact, the lobby displays local art on a rotating basis. The sliced off BMW trunk is the reception desk.Isetta Inn, Savannah Isetta Inn, Savannah

Adjacent to the lobby is an ornate but comfortable living room. I spent a while there as well, writing postcards. Wonder how often that happens.Isetta Inn, Savannah

The entrance to the right off the living room is to the kitchen, where guests could use a table, refrigerator, sink, plates and silverware, and a microwave, but not the stove or oven. We had cereal and other breakfast food — also available to guests — two of our mornings there, and leftovers for dinner one night.

A distinctive feature of the kitchen.Isetta Inn, Savannah

Our room, Hedwig’s Perch, was on the third floor. All of the hotel’s rooms have names, also including Sacred Tower, L-Suite, Polaroid Room, Alpha Romeo, and the posh Presidential. Just before we left, we noticed that the guests in that room had left before us, leaving the door open, so we got a peak inside. Posh indeed.

As for Hedwig’s Perch, it might have been a children’s bedroom originally, or maybe a sewing room, cozy as it was. But it did have two single beds, the only room at the inn with that feature, so I booked it. Two other rooms are on the third floor, and the three share one bathroom with a shower, and one without, off a short hallway. This was never an issue.

Our room was L shaped. Open the door and you see a bed with a cast-iron frame, a rolltop desk and a tree painted on the wall, complete with Spanish moss. Ann had to tell me who Hedwig was: Harry Potter’s owl.Isetta Inn, Savannah

The walls, according to the inn, were “custom painted by famed artist Dame Darcy.” I had to look her up, but the world is full of things I don’t know. Could be I’m not in the right demographic, since she’s known for illustrating works like Vegan Love: Dating and Partnering for the Cruelty-Free Gal, with Fashion, Makeup & Wedding Tips and for Tarot decks that went viral.

Then again, demographics are limiting. After all, some young men were reportedly fond of My Little Pony, so there’s no real reason late middle age/early old age men can’t enjoy, for example, Dame Darcy’s autobiographical graphic novel, Hi Jax & Hi Jinx (Life’s a Pitch and Then You Live Forever). But odds are I won’t read it.

Dame Darcy’s arboreal theme continues along the rest of the wall. I slept in the cast-iron bed, under the 2-D tree canopy. The bed squeaked at a low pitch, even when I wasn’t moving, that would have kept me awake for hours had I not figured out to keep the bed absolutely flush with the wall.Isetta Inn, Savannah

Around the corner of the L is another bed, or a reading nook, which is where Ann slept.
Isetta Inn, Savannah

For all its high-polish artistic charms, I’m glad to say Isetta wasn’t vastly expensive. I’ve paid about as much for soulless middle- and upper-middle chain hotel rooms, and somehow staying in a soulless room in a city like Savannah would have been a damned shame. I haven’t worked out exactly why the Isetta was named for the bubble car of that name, but the web site does say the following, attributed to owner Jonathan.

“I’m big believer in alternative transportation to improve quality of life for us. We have a fleet of rental bicycles available to all guests. We are perfectly located for you to see all the sites on two wheels. I also personally have a few examples of historical ‘alternative transportation’ ideas in the form of micro cars. Such as a 1950s BMW Isetta that is our namesake.”

That’s pretty cool, but I’ll bet the bubblecar that’s for hard-core enthusiasts is the Soviet SMZ cyclecar.

Tony the Retired Barber & Ron the Returned Barber

I called my barber shop this morning, expecting to make an appointment with Tony the barber, who has cut my hair most of the time since I quit having it cut in downtown Chicago, which was in 2005, when I quit working downtown.

Most memorably, I took Ann to the shop when she was five, and she documented the scene.

“He’s retired,” another barber told me over the phone. I expressed my surprise. Since the end of last year, turns out.

But it isn’t really that surprising. Tony was 70 if he was a day. So I made an appointment with Ron the barber, who took Tony’s chair. Ron is also 70 if he’s a day, and came out of retirement after making a recovery from a fall that broke his hip and nearly killed him. From the look of his gait, I’d say his recovery’s been pretty solid.

I know that because he told me about it as he cut my hair. He’s a little more chatty than Tony, but after he told me about his health (and one other thing), he didn’t talk a lot more. Never been a fan of chatty barbers, maybe because of the redneck who cut my hair 40+ years ago who had some asinine opinions he liked sharing.

The other thing Ron the barber told me was about another barber who used to be in the shop — I didn’t remember him — who came down with Covid at some point. The disease seemed to evolve into long Covid, Ron said, but further testing revealed metastasized cancer of some kind. He implied, but didn’t say, that that fellow now has a barber chair in glory. I didn’t ask. Such are the social conventions around death.

Ron did say that the unfortunate fellow’s condition inspired Tony, who is still fairly healthy, to retire. Good for Tony. As for Ron, he’s as talented as Tony, and did an expert job, so I expect I’ll be back.

One more thing: he charged $20, same as Tony did for not sure how many years. For now anyway, the current round of inflation hasn’t hit my barber shop.

Actually, another thing: I saw from his barber license on the wall that Ron has an Italian surname. So did Tony, and so does the other barber still working in the shop besides Ron. And so did both barbers I went to downtown in the late ’90s and early ’00s and I think — not sure now — the barber I went to in the Andersonville neighborhood of Chicago in the late ’80s. A thing that makes me go hm.

Frog in the Snow & Other February Sights

Here we are, partway through paradoxical February, which is the shortest and yet the longest month.

Much of the snow has melted, but it will be back. Out in the front yard, near the front door, our metal frog peeps further out of the snow cover.frog in the snow

Elsewhere in the northwest suburbs, machines stand ready to deal with more frozen precipitation.snow plow

I’ve seen flags to warn, or assure, passersby about the solidity of ice, usually green or red for go or no go. But I’ve never seen one that hedges its bets. Red = no ice use. Yellow = own risk.hoffman estates

It’s theoretical for me anyway. I’m not about to walk out on any ice.

Stray Quiz

The other day I happened across an online geography quiz that was more challenging than most, since most seem to be aimed at grade schoolers (e.g., What’s the country north of the USA?). It was multiple choice, and included such questions as:

Which volcano is located astride the border between Bolivia and Chile?

Mat Ala
Pago
Surtla
Olca

Which valley is one of the richest cactus sites in the world?

Valley of Tehuacan
Valley of Baïgorry
Valley of Joux
Valley of Usines

Which village of Savoy is today famous for its devils carved in the wood?

Bramans
Bonneval
Bessans
Modane

Of those three, I only knew about the cacti-rich Tehuacan Valley in Mexico. But the quiz had the benefit of inspiring me to look up the ones I got wrong, and now I know where that Andean volcano is and those wooden devils are.

One question was oddly worded — a editorial slip, probably. It read:

How often is China’s area larger than Japan’s?

The correct answer, of course, is always.

Mother & Child, Adjusted

Last week at the antique mall I came across a wad of mostly unlabeled photos, some probably as old as 100 years, but most looked like they were taken from the 1940s to the 1960s. I’d seen that kind of offering before, but always passed them up, often in favor of postcards.

The few with names or locations written on the back, I noticed, sometimes sold for as much as a dollar each, which is too much just for a picture of a long-ago stranger. But many of the anonymous photos were 25 cents each, so that encouraged me to buy a handful at that price.

Of those I bought, I like this one best. Hard to go wrong with a mother and child.

Of course, that’s just an assumption. Could be an aunt and niece, for example, or unrelated people, though that doesn’t seem likely. From the looks of them, I’d put the image sometime in the ’40s, perhaps the late ’40s.

An unidentified image of this kind makes me wonder. What were their names? Where did they live? How is it that their picture ended up in a for-sale bin in an antique mall in greater Chicago in the third decade of the 21st century?

If I’m right about the date, the child was on the cutting edge of the baby boom, assuming they are Americans. After all, the baby boom started about then with actual babies being born, and so there’s a fairly good chance the child is still alive, and even a very slender chance the woman is. But if so, why don’t they have their picture?

Unanswerable questions. All I really know is that I have the picture now, and ran it through my image-editing software, as I’ve done with more familiar images before. Add a little color, for instance.

Interesting how recognizable the figures are in the next one, even if you’d never seen the unretouched image, though I suppose we’re all primed to look for patterns that look like faces and bodies.

Kaleidoscope-style is next. It occurred to me I didn’t know who invented the kaleidoscope, so I looked it up. Though there were antecedents, it seems that Scottish inventor David Brewster devised its modern form in the mid-1810s, and coined the word. (Greek, beautiful + shape + look).

Much more abstract.

Yet we still see human figures, more or less, especially at a distance.

Spouting Off Thursday

Compare and contrast, as my English teachers used to say.

Dusk on February 1.

Dusk on February 2.

For comparison, about the same framing — the view from my back door — but a whole lot of contrast. We caught the edge of the aforementioned winter storm on Wednesday morning. Not a huge amount of snow, just enough to be the usual pain in the ass.

Speaking of which, wankers are on the loose. They always are. Taken at a NW suburban gas station recently. No doubt posted by a true believer, unwittingly on behalf of the listed grifters.

One objection to the Covid-19 vaccine I find particularly irksome — one quasi-rational objection, that is, as opposed to the microchip ‘n’ such crackpot ones — is that it was developed too quickly.

True enough, it was developed much more quickly than any vaccine in history. Know what I’d call that? Progress. You’d be mistaken in believing Progress can cure all of mankind’s many ills, but it does a pretty good job in treating a lot of literal ills.

The other day I read about a woman who favored certain famous quack treatments for a relative dying of Covid-19, and who pestered his no doubt overburdened health care workers about it. One commentator on the situation said that the woman had attended the Dunning-Kruger School of Advanced Medicine.

Next, something a little lighter. Some time ago I was watching a video of “Puff the Magic Dragon,” sung in by Peter, Paul and Mary in 1986. At 2:53, the camera points toward a fellow in the audience, the one with dark curly hair — and instantly I recognized him.

That’s Dave, an old friend of mine I met in in the mid-80s Nashville, where he was from. Later we hung out in Chicago, since he went to graduate school there. These days he lives in Minnesota and teaches art. According to his Facebook page, he’s also a fellow at the Center for Residual Knowledge, Division of Other Things.

Bet I could get a fellowship there.

I didn’t realize the Winter Olympics were starting today until I saw it mentioned online. Upcoming events, according to the site, include figure skating, freestyle skiing, ice hockey, snowboarding, curling, bobsled and Uyghur internment, which is special to these Games.

Genocide aside, and that’s a big aside, I can’t muster much interest in the Games, except maybe for luge and skeleton, the events most likely to inspire spectacular accidents.

Modern Antiques

The other part of Ann’s birthday present from her parents consisted of purchases at an antique mall in Arlington Heights, Illinois, on Saturday afternoon. It had been a while since we’d been there — the last time might have been when I spotted Billy Beer for sale — but we figured she might find some beads or bead-adjacent materials there. She did.antiques

“On the whole it’s a likable place stuffed to the gills with debris from across the decades. I like looking around, just to remind myself how much stuff there is in the manmade world,” I wrote five years ago. Still apt. I also mentioned that place used to discourage photography.

If that’s still the case, I didn’t see any signs to tell me so this time. Maybe the proprietors gave that rule up as hopeless, since every single person who wanders in will have a high-quality, very easy to use camera in pocket or purse. Besides, how is the place going to be on social media if it disallows pictures?

So I took a few pictures. Such as of the plentiful reading material, including good old Mad, font of juvenile wisdom as surely as Captain Billy’s Whiz Bang before it.antiques antiques

Other objects. Many other objects.

Husman’s of Cincinnati is no more — as of only last year.

I didn’t take any kind of rigorous inventory, naturally, but I can’t shake the feeling that the mall’s stock is on a bell curve in terms of item-age, with the bulge being from the 1950s through the 1970s, and tapering off at each end. That is to say, nostalgia for people just about my age.

With some older items in the mix, of course.

Along with objects that look fairly new.
Bead World Palatine

The games entertained me most of all, without me having to play them.

Some standards: Operation, Scrabble, Twister, Yahtzee. Some tie-ins: Family Feud, Green Eggs and Ham, Cat in the Hat, Jeopardy. Others: Pass Out, Rummikub, Super Master Mind.

When I looked at that image today I also noticed the Talking, Feeling, And Doing Game, which I’d never heard of. “A psychotherapeutic game for children,” the box says. Copyright date 1973 by an outfit called Creative Therapeutics in New Jersey, and one groovy typeface for the name.

A relic of the much-maligned ’70s, I figured, a rep only slightly deserved, though that’s a discussion for another time. In any case, an echo of that half century ago, now forgotten, right?

Wrong, at least according to Amazon, which asserts that the game is “one of the most popular tools used in child psychotherapy.”

Turns out there’s an entire subspecies of board games that are used in child therapy, as I discovered looking at the Amazon page: Better Me, Emotional Roller Coaster, The Mindfulness Game and Together Point Family, to name just a few. I’m a little glad that I’d never heard of any of them before.

Of all the antique mall games, however, this one amused me most.
Barney Miller game

Could it be that the real prize among board game collectors, and there must be such, is finding a mint copy of the Fish board game, only a few hundred of which were ever sold?

Almost as good.

My family were clearly stick-in-the-muds when it came to tie-in board games. I don’t remember that we had a single one in our collection of a dozen or so games, and no one (including me) ever expressed any interest in them. I don’t even remember my friends having any. Did I miss out on a delightful childhood experience? Nah.

More Winter

Kicked off February with a day above freezing. Two observations: The only thing good about February is that January is over. Also, winter hasn’t abated. It’s just lulling us with a temporary moment of ease.

The map below is lifted from the NWS, which of course puts it in the public domain. Looks like we’ll get at least a few inches tomorrow, while the real wintertime action is some distance away. Ann will probably experience some heavy snow. I’m glad that didn’t happen on Sunday. Rather, a bomb cyclone had just hit the Northeast. There’s a term I enjoy: bomb cyclone. But it’s not so much fun to be visited by one.weather map 2/1/22

Train of thought for the day, inspired by a Google doodle. Today’s doodle connects you to an page labeled Lunar Calendar, which is a discussion of that kind of calendar, not the specific Chinese calendar whose new year is always around now in the Georgian calendar. That might give people the idea that all lunar calendars begin around now.

Then again, there are vanishingly few people who care about the subject at all. There aren’t any ardent U.S. calendar factions, such as those pushing for a restoration of the Western lunar calendar, asserting that the pointy-headed solar calendar is just an interloper and Sosigenes of Alexandria was a con man, or communities of Julian calendar users in pockets of Appalachia who quarrel with the federal government every year about when Tax Day is. It’s just a fact that most people’s entire concern with the calendar is what day is it now, and how far in the future is this planned event?

Then again again, I don’t know much myself about the Chinese lunar calendar, except that it’s a lunar calendar, it’s Chinese, and new year comes around the beginning of February. And that each year has one of five elements and 12 animals, making for a cycle of 60 years, though that’s actually an aspect of Chinese astrology, which I hold in exactly the same regard as any other astrology.

What calendar knowledge I have is fairly Gregorian and Julian, and some about liturgical calendars, and a bit about the Jewish and Muslim calendars. So maybe I should learn myself some Chinese calendar facts. The remarkable thing is how easy that would be to do in our time, sitting right here at my desk.

Which can easily become a rabbit hole. When I was reading about calendars today, I found a page about Lunar Calendar and Standard Time, which as far as I can tell was made up by some Swedes because they perceived a lack of standard units of time to be used on the Moon.

Deep-Freeze Thursday Melange

Today wasn’t actually that cold. About 30 degrees F. for an afternoon high, 20 degrees warmer than the day before, a brief interlude before a dive back down. A seamount in the trench of winter.

Actually, I don’t think seamounts rise in trenches, but that doesn’t have to be literally the case for the metaphor, rudimentary as it is, to work. Then again, maybe they do rise in trenches. My oceanographic knowledge itself is fairly rudimentary, though I am fascinated by those maps of the oceans that show the mountain ranges, abyssal plains and trenches.

“Seamounts — undersea mountains formed by volcanic activity — were once thought to be little more than hazards to submarine navigation. Today, scientists recognize these structures as biological hotspots that support a dazzling array of marine life,” NOAA says.

“New estimates suggest that, taken together, seamounts encompass about 28.8 million square kilometers of the Earth’s surface. That’s larger than deserts, tundra, or any other single land-based global habitat on the planet.”

Guess that’s the thing I learned today. Unless, of course, NOAA is part of the conspiracy to keep knowledge of the merfolks’ vast underwater kingdoms a secret from the general public, and its facts are actually “facts.” Because that’s just the sort of thing that generally governments do.

Better create some memes tout suite to warm people about NOAA.

Pyramid tea.pyramid tea

I don’t actually remember the brand, since I took the picture a while ago. But I remember it being good tea.

An example of information-free travel writing can be found at a site I ran across recently that purports to offer information for family vacations, in this case its page about the “Best Things to Do in Rochester, Minn.” (I’m not going to link to it.)

The top “best thing” on the list is the Rochester Art Center, which might be a reasonable suggestion. But the site describes it this way: “This enchanting place is home to some of the most fascinating and creative contemporary art you will ever see today. Plus, it encourages people to understand and value art for what it is, making it a great place to visit if you have a soft spot for art.

“The art center boasts a gallery where you can stroll around and admire their lovely contemporary art.”

Gee, if you’re going to publish this kind of vacuousness, at least you can shorten it:
The Rochester Art Center’s got a lot of swell art. Like art? Go see it.