Our Second Decatur This Year

On Saturday, I wondered how many U.S. cities and towns are named for Stephen Decatur. Later I looked it up: Counting Decatur City, Iowa, and a ghost town in Missouri of that name, 17 — not counting counties, of which there are six among the several states.

Now mostly forgotten except by the Navy and naval history enthusiasts, he had his moment. He even took a lethal bullet in a duel, though Commodore Decatur isn’t known as well as Alexander Hamilton for that distinction. Lin-Manuel Miranda needs to get on the stick and write Decatur: A Musical of Kicking Barbary Pirate Asses.

Decatur’s moment also happened to be when towns and counties were being named in the United States. Decatur, Illinois, has the largest population of any of them, edging out Decatur, Alabama by some thousands of souls, even though the Prairie State Decatur has been shrinking in recent decades.

We spent most of Saturday afternoon in Decatur, Illinois, our second visit to a city of that name this year. Though the more northern Decatur isn’t quite the industrial town it used to be, a number of large manufacturers are still in evidence, such as Mueller Co., more about which later. Downtown Decatur seemed in fair shape as well. Good enough for a walkabout late in the afternoon, when the heat was ebbing away.

Decatur’s signature structure is the Transfer House.
Transfer House Decatur Illinois“The Transfer House was erected in 1895, replacing a smaller shelter dating from 1892,” writes H. George Friedman Jr., whose page features many pictures. “The City Electric Railway paid $500 toward the $2,700 building fund subscribed by local merchants and property owners, and agreed to furnish and maintain the building. As its name implies, it was used as a central transfer point for all the streetcar lines (and later the bus lines) in the city.”

Designed by W.W. Boyington, of all people. That only seems odd to me because we visited another one of his works just last week, the Old Joliet Prison. So there’s nothing really odd about it. The man got a lot of commissions.

Remarkably, the Transfer House was originally located at Main and Main streets — that always sought-after address, at least among commercial real estate investors. Decatur still has a north-south Main and an east-west Main, and their meeting looks like an ordinary intersection, though there is a statue of young A. Lincoln nearby.

In 1962, the city moved the Transfer House to its current location in Central Park, near a fountain.
The park also features a memorial to the Macon County’s Civil War soldiers.
On the back of the base, a plaque says:

Grand Army of the Republic
Organized in this city
April 6, 1866
Erected by Dorcas Society,
and Other
Patriotic Citizens

Not erected until 1904. Maybe funds were in short supply for years, but then the people of Decatur realized their veterans didn’t have much longer.

Near Central Park are a number of buildings, including this one sporting one of Decatur’s murals, featuring Mike Elroy, a recent mayor.
Driving into town we saw a more interesting mural featuring Bob Marley on the side of a record store building, but we didn’t stop for it.

A former Universalist church building, originally erected in 1854.
The handsome Merchant Street, formerly a hive of scum and villainy.

Further from the park was the equally handsome Library Block, home these days to a brewpub and other businesses.
The Decatur Masonic Temple, looking a lot like a WPA post office.
The First United Methodist Church of Decatur.
As with many city churches, it would have been nice to get inside for a look, but no go.

At first, I thought this might be the entrance to an eccentric dentist’s office, an oral equivalent of the eyes of Doctor T. J. Eckleburg.

But no: it’s the entrance to the Sol Bistro restaurant.

The Danish Cemetery, Lemont

En route back from Joliet on Sunday, there was one more sight to see, just off I-355 in southeast suburban Lemont: The Danish Cemetery. It’s a small patch of land, sparsely populated by the dead — or at least their stones — and it hasn’t seen a burial in more than 50 years.
Danish Cemetery, Lemont

As far as I know, ghost stories aren’t told about this place, especially compared with boneyards that are more remote. The only story I know about the Danish Cemetery involves this memorial off to one edge of the grounds.

Danish Cemetery, Lemont

UNKNOWN SOLDIER
Served the U.S. in time of need
Found dead July 1, 1919
Buried by Legion Post 243

“The body of the unknown soldier was taken out of the Sag Canal at Sag Bridge on July 9 [sic], 1919,” Patch says. “He was found by bargemen working on the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal… the funeral home believed the body had been in the water for about 10 days. The remains were brought to Lemont, and they tried to identify the body. Besides the uniform, there were no identifying papers on the body.

“The Lemont Historical Society said no one came forward in Lemont to identify the body and the Lemont American Legion buried him with full honors in the Danish Cemetery.”

The Old Joliet Prison, Interrupted

Though it’s interesting, we didn’t go to Joliet on Sunday just to see the Joliet Area Historical Museum. The drive’s a bit far for that. About a year ago, I read that the museum had started offering tours of the former Joliet Correctional Center, which closed in 2002. I knew I wanted to do that, and so Ann and I went.

These days the site is called the Old Joliet Prison — a much better name. As you look at the massive stone walls and guard towers and the barb-wire residuum, no weasel word like “correctional” will do. It was a prison.

The tour groups meet in front of the former prison’s administrative building. Convict labor built the prison in the 1850s, with a design by W.W. Boyington, who also designed the Chicago Water Tower.
It’s also the site of the 1915 murder of Odette Allen, wife of the prison’s warden, a story that the guide told us almost at once. Blunt force to her head, body set on fire in her room, a young black inmate fingered for the crime but not executed because there was too much doubt about his guilt, though he spent the rest of his life in the prison. Later I read about the incident, as relayed here.

One curious detail to the story (I thought): “That afternoon, [Warden Edmund] Allen bought his wife a $3,000 diamond ring. He was going to present it to her that evening at dinner.”

That’s an insanely expensive ring, about $76,000 in current money. Allen was independently wealthy? Maybe running a large state prison had its graft opportunities in the early 20th century. This is Illinois we’re talking about, after all. But enough to buy that kind of rock for his wife?

Anyway, the former administrative building hasn’t been stabilized yet, so we had to enter the grounds through one of the prison’s sally ports.
Old Joliet Prison 2019Almost immediately after our entrance, heavy rain started to fall. The tour leader took us into some of the few structures open to visitors, in hopes that the rain would slack off.

So we got to see some solitary confinement cells, with the only light from windows and cell phones.
Along with the former prison hospital and its abandoned equipment.
The prison has been closed for 17 years. In the early years of its abandonment, the place was pretty much no man’s land, prone to looting, arson and vandalism. Graffiti relics of those days are still visible.
The rain kept coming.

Soon thunder and lightning started. Since much of the tour is outdoors — most of the buildings are still unsafe — that meant the tour had to be cancelled. In a few moments of lighter rain, we all left the way we had come. I got a few pictures of the wet grounds as we exited.

We can re-schedule at no extra charge at a later time. I figure that might be October, when it certainly won’t be hot, and the risk of thunderstorms is a little less.

The Joliet Area Historical Museum

RIP, Debbie DeWolf. One Monday morning in 1988, when I was working at the Law Bulletin Publishing Co. in Chicago, the company receptionist — whose name I forget — reportedly called the company long distance from Kansas or Nebraska or the like and said she wasn’t coming to work that day. Or ever again.

Shortly thereafter, a young woman named Debbie DeWolf took her place. She was one of the more effervescent people I’d ever met and she ultimately make a career at the LBPC well beyond answering phones. I hadn’t spoken with her for many years before her death, but it was sad news.

On Sunday, Ann and I spent some time in Joliet. We noticed that the Blues Brothers pop up in odd places around town, such as on the wall of an auto parts business and at the main entrance to the Joliet Area Historical Museum.

The Joliet Area Historical Museum

That’s pretty remarkable traction for not only fictional characters, but for characters created more than 40 years ago. Then again, Jake’s nickname was “Joliet,” and he was seen being released from the Joliet Correctional Center when The Blue Brothers opened (and come to think of it, he was back in the jug at the end of the movie), so I guess Joliet can claim him.

Better than the city being associated forever with the prison. The museum doesn’t particularly downplay the long history of the prison, but it isn’t exactly celebrated either. In any case, it will probably be a few more decades before “prison” stops being the first answer in a word association game with “Joliet.”

It’s a longstanding tie. In 1972, Chicago songwriter Steve Goodman recorded a song called “The Lincoln Park Pirates,” about an aggressive Chicago-based towing service that regularly ransomed cars. It included the following lines:

All my drivers are friendly and courteous
Their good manners you always will get
‘Cause they all are recent graduates
Of the charm school in Joliet

The Joliet Area Historical Museum is a well-organized example of a mid-sized local history museum, with thematically grouped artifacts and reading material. In its main exhibition hall, the centerpiece re-creates a section of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, which passed through Joliet. The view from the first floor.
The Joliet Area Historical MuseumThe view from the second floor, with stained glass from a demolished local church in the background.
The Joliet Area Historical MuseumAnother transportation-related artifact: a Lincoln Highway signpost.
The Joliet Area Historical MuseumAs it happens, the Lincoln Highway still runs through Joliet, half a block south of the museum, as U.S. 30. There’s also a sign in downtown Joliet marking the intersection of the Lincoln Highway and a branch of the former U.S. 66.

The museum does acknowledge the prison. In fact, there’s an entire gallery devoted to artwork made from material and debris and found objects from the former pen, or paintings inspired by it.

Even here, there’s no getting away from Jake Blues.
The Joliet Area Historical Museum“Fight Girl,” “Caught” and “Jake” by Dante DiBartolo. Interestingly, the images are painted on metal shelving scavenged from the prison.

Part of the former prison burned in 2013 — arson — and some of the burned items were later used for art as well. Such as a scorched TV set for “Ren-ais-sance Man” by Terry M. Eastham.
Joliet Area Historical MuseumI didn’t see a title for this one.
Joliet Area Historical MuseumRemarkably, the work is by a 7th grader named Sophia Benedick. The words on the work are, “It’s Never Too Late to Mend.”

There is also a room in the museum devoted to John Houbolt. He was the NASA aerospace engineer who pushed successfully for lunar orbit rendezvous for Apollo, a concept that made the landing possible by 1969. I’d read about him before (and seen him depicted in the superb miniseries From the Earth to the Moon), but missed the detail that he went to high school in Joliet.

Besides the museum, we spent a short time in downtown Joliet. One of these days, I want to attend a show at the Rialto Square Theatre. Supposed to be pretty nice on the inside. The outside’s not too bad either.
Rialto Square Theater JolietOn the grounds of the Joliet Public Library downtown is Louis Joliet himself.
Louis Joliet statue Joliet Public LibraryUnlike Jebediah Springfield, he didn’t purportedly found the town or anything. Joliet just passed this way.

Woodstock Walkabout

At noon on Saturday, the sun was high and mighty and toasting northern Illinois well into the 90s F. Later in the afternoon, an unexpected storm blew through. Unexpected because I hadn’t looked at any weather reports. By late afternoon, the storm was over and temps were in the pleasant 70s.

A good time to take a short walk in Woodstock, Illinois, which might be one of the state’s most pleasant towns. A good place to start was Woodstock Square. At the very center of the square is a GAR memorial to Union soldiers and sailors from Woodstock, which was founded in 1852.
What’s a town square without a gazebo?
Woodstock Square IllinoisStrolling south from Woodstock Square, I passed by the Blue Lotus Buddhist Temple. I noticed it on a previous visit to Woodstock.

Blue Lotus Temple Woodstock Illinois

I don’t believe these statues were there the last time. It’s been seven or so years, after all. Plenty of time to add a few depictions of Buddha.
Blue Lotus Temple Woodstock IllinoisBlue Lotus Temple Woodstock IllinoisThe temple isn’t the only religious site in the vicinity. Cater-cornered across the street is Woodstock’s First Church of Christ, Scientist. Not far away are the First United Methodist Church and the Unity Spiritual Center of Woodstock.

I’d come to Woodstock to see Greg Brown at the handsome Woodstock Opera House. He’s a vastly underappreciated singer-songwriter-story teller from Iowa.

It was dark after the show, but I didn’t want to hurry away from Woodstock. Besides, I’d read that there was a new(ish) mural just north of Woodstock Square. So it is, in an alley — which the town calls a “pedway” — off Main Street next to Classic Cinemas Woodstock Theatre.

The mural honors the likes of Groundhog Day, filmed locally and remembered elsewhere in town.

Woodstock Illinois Movie and Stage Mural

Orson Welles, who spent part of his youth in Woodstock.

Woodstock Illinois Movie and Stage MuralThe town also remembers Chester Gould, though the Dick Tracy Museum in Woodstock closed a number of years ago.
Woodstock Illinois Movie and Stage MuralThe alley features two statues as well. One is a wood carving of Woodstock Willie, presumably the town’s answer to Punxsutawney Phil, created by carver Michael Bihlmaier.
Woodstock WillieOddly enough, also near the mural is a small bronze of Welles by a local artist, Bobby Joe Scribner.
Woodstock Orson Welles statueAccording to the information sign near the work, it’s the only statue of Welles on public display in the United States. Interesting that it depicts an older Welles. His Paul Masson period, you might say.

The Pfluger Pedestrian Bridge & Other Austin Bridges

I’ll note the anniversary of Apollo 11 here by linking to 10 years ago. Also, I was once the sort of lad who built a Saturn V model and had coloring books that I didn’t take that seriously.

But I did more than watch TV coverage or color or build models (I had a CM and LM set, too). I had books as well and I read them avidly, along with various editions of National Geographic. None was better on Apollo 11 (at least in memory) than Apollo: Lunar Landing by James J. Haggerty, published right after the event by Rand McNally, with a 1969 copyright.

Closer to the present, we had a hot old time in Austin on July 4 three years ago. I mean that literally. Even though we were out and about fairly early that morning — our goal was the now-closed Hope Outdoor Gallery, which we soon saw — temperatures rose quickly, as you’d expect during a Texas summer.

Before (after?) we went to the gallery, we spent a few minutes walking across the Pfluger Pedestrian Bridge, which crosses Ladybird Lake (Colorado River) just east of the Lamar Boulevard Bridge. In full, it’s the James D. Pfluger Pedestrian and Bicycle Bridge.

Though the heat was on, it was a nice walk across.
Pfluger Pedestrian Bridge, AustinThis is the Lamar Boulevard Bridge and activity under the bridge.

lamar blvd bridge austin

In the other direction, east, is downtown Austin and a railroad bridge with prominent graffiti.

“The bridge is named for Austin architect James D. Pfluger, who designed much of the city’s hike and bike trail system, including the ones on either side of Town Lake, which are now connected by the bridge,” the Daily Texan reported when the bridge was opened in 2001.

“The walkway will also honor cyclist Chris Kern and jogger Jack Slaughter, who were killed by motorists on the Lamar bridge. Kern died in 1991 after a drunk driver rear-ended his bicycle, and Slaughter died in February 2000 when he was struck and killed by a car.”

According to the story, Kern and Slaughter have a plaque on the bridge, but we must have missed it.

More Bits of Pittsburgh & West Virginia Too

The street that follows the edge of Mt. Washington in Pittsburgh is the aptly named Grandview Ave., featuring some truly grand views overlooking downtown and the three rivers. There are some multifamily properties and office buildings on the road that take advantage of the vista. But not that many. Am I missing something about the Pittsburgh market? Why, for instance, is this building in such a prime spot?

Maybe the lot’s too narrow for an apartment tower — like the one behind it — but what about a large house? I’d imagine that would command a handsome price.

The March 1936 flood in Pittsburgh was a bad one. How do I know this, beyond it being in the historical record? In downtown Pittsburgh, I encountered this wall. Note the plaque way up there.

“Nearly two inches of rain fell on March 16, which added to the 63 inches of snow that came throughout the winter,” the Heinz History Center says. “Warm temperatures melted the snow, swelling creek beds along the upper Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers.

“On St. Patrick’s Day, the rising rivers reached the North Side and washed into the streets of Downtown, wiping out historic businesses within hours. River levels reached a peak of 46 feet at the Point, more than 20 feet over flood stage, leaving more than half of Downtown businesses under water.”

In front of the Andy Warhol Museum is this street sign.
Not sure whether the museum had anything to do with that, but it’s a nice sentiment anyway.

PNC Park was on the way to the Warhol. July 5 was a game day.
The Pirates played the Brewers that day, losing 7-6 in 10 innings. But that was still in the future when we wandered by. If you look closely, you can see a statue of J.P. “Honus” Wagner, beloved Pirate of yore, just in front of the main entrance.

On Independence Day weekend, Pittsburgh is always host to Anthrocon, a national convention I’d never heard of before we took our Pittsburgh walking tour. Anthrocon attendees were out and about that day, and they were easy to pick out.

Here’s an attendee waiting to cross the street.
He had his headpiece off at that moment, but others walked by in full costume, defying the heat. Just what is Anthrocon?

The organization’s web site says: “Anthrocon began as Albany Anthrocon in 1997, and since then has grown into one of the largest anthropomorphics conventions in the world with a membership in 2018 of over 8,400 attendees… All of the finer aspects of anthropomorphic, or more commonly, ‘Furry’ fandom, are celebrated here.”

For local hotels, including the storied Omni William Penn Hotel, a convention’s a convention.
That other black-and-gold flag, by the way, is the Pittsburgh city flag.

The Frick Pittsburgh includes an exhibit of antique carriages and auto-mobiles. Cool little collection. Including the likes of a 1909 Stanley Steamer Model R Roadster.
And a 1929 Ford Model A, open to sit in. At some point, my mother’s father had a Model A. She told me about riding short distances — in their driveway — on its running board. I told that to Ann, not just to tell her about her grandmother, but also so she might know what a running board is. Seems like a good detail to know about the world.
I’m sitting in the back of the Model A because I’m too fat for the driver’s seat. Americans generally were more svelte 90 years ago.

A 1940 Bantam Roadster. I doubt that I’d fit in there either.
In a suburban Pittsburgh grocery store — the local brand, Giant Eagle, because you should visit grocery stores wherever you go — I saw local greeting cards.

On the way to Randyland, I stopped at a parking lot on the North Side to consult my map, and noticed an intriguing former church.
Until 2015, it housed the New Bohemian, an arts venue. The last time it housed a religious organization was 30 years ago. From the looks of it, nothing is going on there now.

At the Cathedral of Learning of the University of Pittsburgh, the International Rooms weren’t the only interesting features. At one point we entered a classic early 20th-century academic auditorium.
The kind of place where Indiana Jones might teach Archaeology & Derring-Do 101. Even he had to teach freshmen sometimes.

Missed Weird Al, who played Pittsburgh’s Benedum Center the evening we left town. Sold out anyway.
I think I’d pay money to see him, once anyway. But probably not as much as the tickets are priced now, in these gouging days for top acts. The time to see Weird Al would have been ca. 1981. I’m pretty sure “Another One Rides the Bus” was the first song of his I ever heard.

We returned home on July 7 via Columbus, Ohio, and Indianapolis — only a little longer than the all-tollway route we used to get to Pittsburgh from metro Chicago. The main consideration: I was especially annoyed by the Pennsylvania Turnpike, which charged $7.90 to go 11 miles. To compare, the entire Indiana Toll Road, about 136 miles, cost $8.70. Is the Pennsylvania Turnpike paved with gold? If only. I’ll never drive that road again.

I-70 west from Washington, Pa., takes you across the northern panhandle of West Virginia, a route of about 15 miles. We stopped and I put my feet on W. Va. soil for only the second time.

In 1988, I spent Labor Day weekend tooling around parts of Virginia — Shenandoah NP, Staunton, Monticello, etc. A meandering drive along back roads back to greater D.C. took me briefly into West Virginia. No one else was on the road, so I stopped and relieved myself. That was my total experience in W. Va. until 2019. What did we do at the West Virginia Welcome Center near Wheeling? Relieve ourselves.

Randyland

After a heavy downpour cooled down the hot afternoon on July 6 — Pittsburgh seemed awfully tropical this time of the year — we made our way to Randyland. When I was poking around before the trip for Sights To See, I discovered Randyland. Yep, that looks like a sight to see, was my instant conclusion.

“Randyland is the labor of love of Pittsburgh artist Randy Gilson, a local artist and neighborhood renovator,” Atlas Obscura says. “Over the years Gilson has almost singlehandedly turned a blighted neighborhood corner in Pittsburgh’s Mexican War Streets into one of the most colorful spectacles in the city.”

The exact boundaries of Randyland are a little vague. But I know that it includes this colorful building at the corner of Jacksonia and Arch streets.

Maybe this colorful building on Jacksonia.
And the space in between those buildings. Most definitely that space.
Drizzle was still coming down when we reached Randyland, but that didn’t stop us from entering the space — a sign welcomes all — for a look-see. There’s something colorful everywhere you look.

Randy greeted us and we spent a few minutes talking. Though this video might be scripted, it gives you a pretty good idea about how Randy behaved: he was effusive. He seemed genuinely glad to see us, the nth group to wander into his colorful compound. He asked our names and where we were from. He told us it was important to be ourselves and be happy.

In case the isn’t there, Randy greets you anyway in life-sized cutout form.

Later, he went next door, which he said was his studio, but we did see him again before we left, since we bought a couple of t-shirts and a button from him. They were reasonably priced, especially when compared with the merch at the Andy Warhol Museum gift shop. Besides, Warhol is dead, as opposed to effusive and very much alive Randy Gilson. It’s good to support living artists when you can.

Rivers of Steel: Carrie Blast Furnaces National Historic Landmark

It seems to be a misnomer, “Rivers of Steel,” at least as it applies to the Carrie Blast Furnaces National Historic Landmark, yet that’s part of the official name. The Carrie Blast Furnaces produced pig iron, not steel. The facility, which is just outside Pittsburgh, then sent the iron across the Monongahela River to the vast steel works in Homestead, Pa., site of the 1892 battle between strikers and company goons (professional goons: Pinkertons).

So I’d call it Rivers of Iron. Or maybe Rivers of Molten Iron, which sounds more badass. But never mind, that’s just me picking the sort of nits that allow me to be a half-way decent editor.

We arrived at the Carrie Blast Furnaces in time for the 11 a.m. tour on July 6. The day was blazing hot. Fitting for visiting a place whose heat must have been hellish year-round when it was in operation.

The furnaces were originally built in 1881 and acquired by Andrew Carnegie in 1898, becoming part of U.S. Steel a few years later. They closed in 1978. These days, Allegheny County owns the site and a nonprofit manages it, including tours.

The abandoned pig iron foundry — actually two surviving furnaces along the river, #6 and #7, with the rest razed — is a hulking empire of rust and dust and bricks and voids. Enormous pipes rise into the sky. Twisted metal goes this way and that. Our guide’s constant reminder on pebble paths peppered with debris: watch your step. We watched our step, but when standing still, peered as much as possible into Pittsburgh’s, and America’s, industrial past.

Some soaring elements.

Closer to the ground.

Rusty fixtures.

The king of the complex: one of the blast furnaces.

I listened to the explanations of what certain things were, and how the process moved along, but I don’t have a knack for metallurgy, so most of it didn’t stick. I did get the message about how dangerous and hard the work was, especially in the early days.

The site is also a nexus for graffiti and outsider art. The largest piece of outsider art was created some decades after the foundry was abandoned.

“In 1997, when the furnaces were in the hands of the privately owned Park Corp., a group of local artists entered the site, illegally, with the intention of constructing something from the materials that stayed when industry left: steel tubing, copper ties and wire from electrical conduit,” the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette says.

“Every Sunday for a year, the crew crawled through a hole in the fence, carrying their lunches and a few tools… The artists, whose seven head shots are posted on the exterior of the pump house, fastened the deer’s head on the ground and then lifted it atop the neck using a boat winch.”

Graffitists also roamed the site in its abandoned days. Inside a large shed (where the tour began), the walls are covered with it.

Elsewhere in the complex is a wall on which graffiti is now officially allowed.

“On this wall, it’s art,” the guide said. “Everywhere else, it’s vandalism.”